SOVEREIGN STATE OF GREEN
THE PEOPLE OF THE SOIL IN BERGHOLTZ
In a region where producers have frequently shifted their winemaking philosophies, it is challenging for wine drinkers to put their “stamp of approval” on a tall and skinny bottle of Riesling or Pinot Gris. Standing apart from a flurry of styles, Dirler-Cadé is steadfast, committed to their land and winemaking since 1871.
Jean and Ludivine have always believed their wines are among the finest in Alsace and so have we here at APS Wine & Spirits. Heck, we have been fans since 1995 when we imported our first bottles of their aristocratic Rieslings, sumptuous Gewurztraminers, exotic Pinot Gris, noble Muscats and unrivaled Crémants. People “in the know” have always savored the wines of Dirler-Cadé as their little secret.
Well, the secret is out!
In their 2025 Guide, La Revue du Vin de France elevated Domaine Dirler-Cadé to three stars, their very highest ranking. As perhaps the most knowledgeable and comprehensive publication on the wines of France, this is an extraordinary achievement. Domaine Dirler-Cadé now takes its rightful place among the finest estates of France and the world.
Elevating the domaine, La Revue du Vin de France said: “Sensitive and experienced winemakers, Jean Dirler and his wife Ludivine perfectly hold the reins of this estate founded in 1871, passed down from father to son for five generations and biodynamic since 1998. Whatever the grape variety, the accuracy of the wines, their densities and maturity have never been so complete: an impressive range of great dry white wines culminates in the magnificent expressions of the Spiegel, Saering, Kessler and Kitterlé grands crus…The exceptional quality of the entire range in the last vintages has enabled the company to be awarded the third star this year.”
The Dirler-Cadés are people of the soil, owners and caretakers of 44 hectares planted to every permitted varietal in Alsace, except Chardonnay. Even though Riesling is their cornerstone, their ability to produce an accordion of styles is their identity (they are a symphony, not a soloist). When Jean Dirler started the family business in Bergholtz, the Dirlers were vignerons as well as courtiers. One of their early accomplishments was the successful production of sparkling wine. Unbeknownst to many, they are the innovators of Crémant d’Alsace, a category now familiar on American wine lists. As generations passed, the family dissolved their courtier business to become solely vignerons. In 1998, their gallery of terroir grew when Jean-Pierre Dirler’s son, Jean, married Léon Hell-Cadé’s daughter, Ludivine. Now, almost half of their vines are Grand Cru status, an impressive inventory for any French winemaker. 1998 also marked the year when Dirler-Cadé became a member of The Syndicat International des Vignerons en Culture Bio-Dynamique, the body that issues the official Biodyvin approval. Founded in 1995, the member list tallies just over 100 properties in Europe. The Dirler-Cadé family was one of the earliest members, along with Domaine Leflaive, Domaine Pierre Morey, François Chidaine, Maison Chapoutier, Zind-Humbrecht, and Marc Kreydenweiss. In an era where “natural wine” induces conversation, Dirler-Cadé speaks clairvoyantly. Their meticulous bio-dynamic treatment in the vineyard perfectly juxtaposes their “let it be” way in the cellar. Jean and Ludivine allow the soil and the vintage to dictate the style. In years when fermentation naturally stops, leaving residual sugar, the Dirler-Cadés do not intervene. The wines are genuinely dry, but a little shift in residual sugar (sometimes up or down) merits their homegrown philosophy, never sacrificing their standards to satisfy a fickle palate or vogue.
As a result of their resources and green hands, their measure of Riesling is extraordinary. A Riesling lover can drink Dirler-Cadé wines for decades, continually engaged by individual expressions of terroir and vintage. The Grand Cru sites of Saering and Spiegel give wines that are more transparent and laser-like, while the Grand Crus of Kessler and Kitterlé emphasize warmth and circular shape. If Riesling was the only grape Dirler-Cadé produced, we would still be writing. But perhaps, their most telling achievement is their collection of estate and lieu-dit wines, which are spirited and varietally spot-on. A textbook and textured Pinot Blanc Réserve is the revolving door to old-vine Sylvaner and Pinot Gris from the hillside lieu dit of Schimberg. And of course, this Alsace family would not be Dirler nor Cadé without their original cuvée, the enduring Crémant d’Alsace.
From the pioneers of Crémant d’Alsace, this cuvée is 60% Pinot Gris and 40% Auxerrois, quickly pressed and fermented in steel at cool temperatures. Made by the Champagne method, the wine rests on its lees for 30 months. Rich, fruit forward, and balanced with nerve and acidity. Powerful, yet elegant with a petit bisou of salmon color in the glass from the quickly-pressed Pinot Gris. Miniscule residual sugar at 0.6 g/liter.
A Sylvaner lover’s dream come true. From the Heisse Wanne block of the Grand Cru Kessler that the Dirler’s planted in 1957. The wine is whole cluster pressed, then fermented and matured in foudres for 10 months, bottled unfined with light filtration. Straw-green, quince and pear laced with minerality. Delicious.
The Dirler-Cadés source their Pinot Blanc for us exclusively from a block of vines dating to 1965 in the Bollenberg lieu-dit, a marl and sandstone site overlooking the town of Orschwihr. This site stands apart from the Vosges mountains, benefiting from sun, wind and elevation. The wine is bottled quickly, to preserve that distinct sandstone minerality, spice and orchard fruit quality of old-vine Pinot Blanc. Finishes dry and brisk. On the vast plains of Pinot Blancs this is an oasis.
Crafted from a mix of Muscat d’Alsace and Ottonel from the Grand Cru Saering and a small part Grand Cru Spiegel -Pale straw-green colour. Lovely perfumed lift to the aromas of citrus peel, mint and tarragon. Juicy, brisk and light on its feet, this also has outstanding inner-mouth perfume of herbs and licorice, nicely framed by a touch of smooth tannin. Closes long brisk and juicy, with very good balance (a mere 0.6 g/l residual sugar). The intense perfume and light body of this outstanding wine tells you it is the Muscat of a master.
The vineyard here runs up the slope of a rather impressive hill alongside Kitterle and Saering, and provides a warm spot where Riesling thrives. Never too hot, the fruit ripens evenly with a long “hang time.” One finds here generous minerality, citrus-flint aromatics and intriguing florals. There is depth of flavor and balanced, striking acidity. And of course, it is delightfully dry and untouched by wood.
Virtually all the fruit comes from the lieu-dit Bux, which is a clay-limestone terroir located below the grand cru Spiegel. Like in Schimberg, the Pinot Gris is from massal selection vines chosen for their fruit of profound concentration. It’s easy to experience this in the wines balance of residual sugar and acidity. The acidity makes the wine show completely dry and makes it a real vin de cuisine.
Saering consists largely of rounded east and southeast-facing knolls. The Dirler-Cade Muscat parcel is on the west side of the vineyard where the subsoil is calcerous, while the topsoil is calcerous loam and decomposed sandstone. In making their Saering Muscat, the Dirler-Cade team made three passes through the vineyard to hand pick only the best bunches. Pressed whole-cluster immediately after harvest in their pneumatic bladder press, the new Muscat juice was settled without intervention or additions for 18 hours then fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tank for “purity of expression.” The Saering Muscats of Dirler-Cade are quite expressive of citrus qualities when young (kaffir lime, pomelo, kumquat) taking on a tremendous racy minerality with time in the bottle.
John Haeger writing about Spiegel and Dirler had this to say: “Spiegel is a long, narrow finger of land with gentler slopes than Kitterlé or Kessler, but very visibly rocky, its topsoil consisting of mostly of colluvial deposits from higher altitudes, mixed with very little clay, on a base that is primarily sandstone…[Dirler] makes consumately bright, elegant Rieslings redolent of citrus fruits such as yuzu and lime and herbal infusions.”
Purity and subtlety characterize this wine. Complex aromas combining lemony fruitiness and subtle nuances of anise, verbena and lemon balm – frank and straight attack. Real “vin de cuisine.” Spiegel = “mirror.” Come see why Spiegel is Jean’s prized Riesling.
This bowl-shaped, terraced vineyard of reddish, iron-rich sandy clay soil is a natural suntrap that grape vines love, especially Pinot Gris. In cooler years like 2019, it’s shelter and warmth allow the fruit to ripen slowly and evenly, just one of the many reasons Kessler has long been recognized as Grand Cru. The name Kessler, in fact, comes from the German word for cauldron and the vineyard has been known by this name since the 14th century. The Dirler-Cadé Pinot Gris here is a special breed with smaller berries and thicker skins. The wine is expansive in every direction. Its high-toned aromas mirror the intensity of a late harvest wine. The palate blazes with honeyed minerals, a peachy “fruit cocktail” and a variety of asian spices, while all is kept in balance with finely etched acidity.
The Kitterlé vineyard is a monument to “sense of place,” the vines formed by a sharp overhang shaped by strong, reinforced walls. It is sunny from dusk to dawn with lean and sandy soil that produces exceptional Gewurztraminer. This is Gewurztraminer with all the exotic and spicy fruit aromas (lychee, mango, grapefruit) one could hope for with a persistent and rich palate. Opulent structure with fantastic freshness.
Since its inception in 1995, the Syndicat International des Vignerons en Culture Bio-Dynamique (SIVCBD) has had the same message, “nothing added, nothing taken-out, nothing changed.” The seal of approval is called BIODYVIN, which is issued by the SIVCBD. In order to admit an unbiased approval, the Syndicat hires an independent body (Ecocert) to carry-out the thorough inspections. The process is tiresome but fair, and a fussy standard of meaningful. Less than 140 wineries have BIODYVIN approval, here is a list of its first members:
- Marc Kreydenweiss, 1995 (Alsace)
- Château Faltas, 1995 (Bordeaux)
- Domaine Leflaive, 1995 (Burgundy)
- Dirler-Cadé, 1998 (Alsace)
- Zind-Humbrecht, 1998 (Alsace)
- Pierre Morey, 1998 (Burgundy)
- Maison M. Chapoutier, 1998 (Rhône)
- François Chidaine, 1999 (Loire)
- Domaine Montirius, 1999 (Rhône)
http://www.biodyvin.com/en/our-members/167-domaine-dirler-cade.html