WHAT IT MEANS TO BE “COLIN”
IT’S NOT JUST A NAME, IT’S A WAY OF WINE
The Colin name is a complicated family tree in Burgundy. Marc Colin is the cousin of Bernard and Michel Colin-Deléger (father of Bruno and Philippe). Marc Colin established the winery in Saint-Aubin in 1970, and today the domain makes more than 10 wines under the Saint-Aubin AOC in addition to crowd favorites like, Bourgogne Aligoté, Chassagne-Montrachet, Santenay and the heavyweight Grand Crus of Montrachet and Bâtard.
In 1994, when we opened 1990 “Saint-As” and 1992 “Chassagne-Ms” we drank and believed greatness. Twenty years later, this estate has not let us down and more importantly has continued to surprise us, in a nice way. Whenever there is a transition in power, there is anxiety. The generational bridge between old Colin and young Colin, made us a little leaner, our nails a little shorter. When Marc’s oldest child moved-on in 2005 to focus on his own project, the needle of reputation was passed-on to Damien and Caroline. Just like people move-on, wine moves-on and something greater always lives ahead of the now.
Besides the natural evolution of older vines, there is less movement of wine in the cellar and older large barrels have replaced some new and small ones. Today, the wines of Domaine Marc Colin are more pure, centered and deliberate than their older shadows. In five years, they will be a little more of everything, and that is the excitement. Damien Colin spearhead the winemaking while his sister Caroline manages the business of the estate. Still guided by their father, Marc, this is the pinnacle of “family winery” with a fine address and an established career, yet continuously moving forward.
Marc Colin’s father, Pierre, planted these vines in the spring of 1946 in the lieu-dit of “La Combe” in Puligny-Montrachet. Severe pruning, horse-by-plow, and organic fertilizers keep their vines fit, giving wine of spiral depth and flavor. Aligoté is more stubborn than Chardonnay, it ripens later and is susceptible to mildew and rot. Yet, for a handful of top Burgundy estates, Aligoté is a tattoo of heritage and loyalty. Rightfully protective over their local vinous delicacy, the Colins were not eager to sell this wine to the US market. We’re proud to say that we were the first to import the Colin’s Aligoté. The fruit is pressed whole cluster, fermented with cellar yeast in neutral barrel, then remains in neutral barrel for over a year with minimal movement.
In the words of Damien and Caroline, “This wine captures what our grandfather and father taught us: small quantity, high quality and reflects its sense of place. We seek fruit, energy and nerve. Aromas of white flower and of course our beloved wild fennel, typical of the varietal. Our low yields and only natural acidity produce a lengthy mouth feel. We really like this wine, and we are pleased you have brought it to the USA.” The wine features a neat twist, a new label “Prune-Gapsard.” Same good juice, fresh new look in-honor of Damien Colin’s young children.
Our cuvee of Bourgogne Blanc is made specifically for us in a long collaboration with the Colin Family. It’s sourced from on-the-cusp parcels of Chassagne-Montrachet, as well as some extra juice left over from St. Aubin, with vines planted in the early 1970s and some replanting in the late 1990s. The wine ages in neutral barrel for 10 months to make this must-have, must-open house wine. A thoughtful introduction to the Colin style, concentration of nerve befriended by lucid stone and fresh yellow-green fruits.
Les Castets is one of the smaller Premier Cru vineyards that fringes on the western border, past the town of Saint-Aubin. It’s prized for its steep slope and made by the best producers in the appellation. The vineyard is a recent acquisition, further validating the family’s dominance of terroir on their home turf. Les Castets has linear speed of white peach and yellow apple framed by the plush mineral of 2017. 10 months in oak, one-time stirring of the lees.
If you ask someone what is his/her favorite site in Saint-Aubin, and he/she replies “En Montceau,” you have found yourself a lucky wine-keeper. En Montceau vineyard has a unique position in Saint-Aubin. It sits in the wishbone cradle of La Chatenière, Sur Gamay, and Les Champlots. The wine comes from two parcels planted by Marc Colin himself, one in 1975, the other in 1990. Also, this is one of the Domaine’s most limited bottlings, less than 12 barrels made each vintage. The fruit is centered and slightly floral, revolving apple-gloss and kaleidoscope mineral. 2017 is an over-achieving example of this site. It’s patented white Burgundy, prototype Colin.
Sometimes, when you get a chance for a free upgrade, you take it. When Joseph left to start his own domaine, he took part of Encegnieres with him. We’re pleased to announce that the Chassagne Margot remains sourced 90% Encegnieres. We’ve chosen to use some rows from 1er Cru Vide-Bourse (which sits next to Encegnieres and ALSO touches Batard) as well as a dollop of the 1er Champs-Gain to create Chassagne “Margot”. Margot is Caroline and Damien’s grandmother’s first name – an hommage to her for the blend and the vitality and breed of the wine. Encengineres is the car that drives the force of the wine, and the additional 1er Cru components add to it’s personality and flair.
The Colin’s youngest vines in this site are 30 years old, while the oldest ones are approaching 60 years. Les Champs Gains 2017 is more loose-fitting and laid-back than “Margot”. If “Margot” is the snug, skinny jean, then Les Champs Gains is the stylish boyfriend-cut. It is free-spirited with clove-apple, truffle-lemon, pebble-crush. The mid-palate is cozy, yet precise and fresh, a balanced intellect to its eye-catching fray and swag. 18 months in barrel, about 20%-ish new. Yes, slight fining and filtration before bottling.